Sweden is a country I've always wanted to ride but is expensive and is best done in the summer when other activities are available. My cousins in Sweden invited us to stay with them so this seemed to be a good opportunity for a visit and to include a ride around the Limfjord in Denmark. We started in Copenhagen after flying in with Iceland Air and then traveled by train to Nearby (near Jönköping). My family is originally from Gärdsrum, a really small village in a historical area east of Aneby. The family farm dates back about 500 years. Great grandfather emigrated to U.S. in 1893 and settled in Minnesota. I don't think this was much of an improvement in the 1800's but he stuck it out and raised a family.
Denmark is a great country for camping and we traveled with a tent the last time we were there but we decided to just do hotels this time. We traveled from Gothenburg to Frederikshavn in Denmark and then north to Skagen (pronounced Skaen) where Seaside Hotel, a popular Danish TV program takes place.
We spent about three weeks traveling routes in Denmark and Sweden starting in Copenhagen, then a train to Helsingborg, rode north to Gothenburg, took a ferry to Denmark and rode south back to Copenhagen until we ran out of time.
The routes in Sweden we focused on are:
The South Coast Trail (Sydkustleden)
The Southeast Trail (Sydostleden)
The Kattegatt Trail (Helsingborg till Göteborg)
But we mostly rode the Kattegat and for lack of time only explored a little of the other two trails.
In Denmark starting in Frederikshavn after taking the ferry from Sweden we rode north to Skagen and then followed the coast East to Hirtshals and then caught a train to Aalborg where we could start the Limfjord. The Limfjord is covered in a Esterbauer Bikeline guide that is out of print. This is also called The Limfjord Route - National Cycle Route 12
However a guide is not really needed for either Sweden or Denmark, just use the Naviki app to find bike trails to your destinations. We found the maps to be accurate for both countries and the bike trail well designed.
Starting our tour on the Kattegat in Sweden near Helsingborg.
Guides, Maps and Other Information
Cycle Routes in Sweden Official visitors guide for the long distance cycle routes in Sweden.
Maps of cycle routes in Sweden. Plus lots of other information.
Cykelfrämjandet is the Swedish national cycling advocacy organization working to improve conditions for all cyclists in Sweden. Lots of information on the cycling tourism page.
The Swedish Cycling Society (SCS) has maps and other information the long distance rider might find useful. "This is a non-profit organization for all those interested in cycling, regardless of age, gender, fitness and place of residence."
Euro Velo Sweden consists of 16 long distance cycle routes for use by bicycle tourists and local inhabitants for transportation and recreation, linking the countries of Europe with cycling-friendly infrastructure. Sweden is home to four EuroVelo routes, covering over 5000 kilometres from the fells of Lapland to Skåne’s sandy beaches.
EV 10 This page has gpx downloads for all of EV 10.
Ruter Dk is the official online platform for national cycling routes in Denmark. It provides descriptions of the 11 national routes and suggestions for the best destinations to visit along the way. Additionally, visitors can find assistance on how to plan their vacations and prepare their bikes.
See the Maps and Guides page for more mapping information.
Maps and GPX tracks for cycle routes in Sweden can be found at this link: Sweden by Bike.
There are many cycling apps with maps available for phone/ android. Here are a couple of the better off line apps.
Naviki Is the best mapping app we've found so far for Europe. This is a Danish based app that seems to have all major bike routes. Requires a map purchase for off line use.
Can be used to follow this route (and other routes)
If you have a KML file of a route, place the file in the maps.me bookmarks folder (MapsWithMe/bookmarks on your phone or tablet) or alternately, email/text it to your device and open the file with maps.me. Total Commander works great for managing and opening files.
Guru Maps can show map types other than OpenStreetMap, in particular it will display OpenCycleMap. KML files can be imported by "opening" the file with Guru. Place the file in a folder or email/text it to your device, press and hold and open with the app. The route will appear in "collections." A user manual is available.
What the ride is like
- Travel Tips
As it is with most train systems in Europe, the Swedish train system is great and can be used to get to almost any city, even the small ones. Some of the Swedish train systems don't take bicycles, in particular the national rail operator SJ does not allow bicycles unless they are dismantled and packed into travel bags. Here's a site with a list of systems that do and don't take bicycles Cykelfrämjandet. The SJ app can be used to book tickets on any Swedish train system and to look up a schedule.
Flying to or from Europe we have now had three consecutive delays of our bicycle boxes. Be sure to file a claim for any lost or delayed luggage before leaving the airport. A luggage service desk should be available at baggage claim. Usually the luggage will arrive on the next flight but it might take quite some time for the airline to deliver. Keep checking the status of the lost or delayed bags, you might be able to pick them up at the airport and avoid a long delay waiting for the bags to be delivered to a hotel.
- Ride Quality
About 80 percent of the routes we used where paved and the gravel portions were easily navigated with road bikes using moderately wide tires. We use Continental Gator Hardshell 32 x 700c tires. All of the routes are extensively signed and easy to follow. In Sweden, the national routes are well planned and follow a mostly vehicle free route. However, unlike Denmark, there are few to none vehicle free routes other than those marked as national cycle routes. Once you leave the route, it's just roads and traffic.
In contrast, in Denmark there is always a way with a bicycle. Many roads have a separate bicycle path that is vehicle free, similar to the system in the Netherlands. In Copenhagen, more that half of persons traveling for work do so with a bicycle.
A separate cycle path on the Kattegat in Sweden. Most Swedish roads do not have a separate path.
- Elevation Change
Both Sweden and Denmark are relatively flat especially southern Sweden, northern Sweden is hilly and mountainous. In Denmark the wind is formidable and could be considered Denmark's mountains. The wind almost always blows around the Limfjord and seems to come from all directions. No wonder Denmark gets much of it's power from wind.
- Best Season
Spring and fall. Summers in Europe are increasingly hot and only a small number of Sweden and Denmark hotels have air conditioning. June through August are the can be wet, we frequently had thunderstorms in early June although the rain didn't last long.
Here's a travel tip: we frequently rented these beach cabins and apartments instead of a hotel room. They are very spacious and fully equipped with a kitchen and are about the same price as a hotel room. I suppose since we travel a little off season these types of accommodations are available. Don't expect to get one of these in August.
Around the Limfjord.
The Limfjord, covered in a Esterbauer Bikeline guide that is out of print, also called The Limfjord Route - National Cycle Route 12, is a long established route in northern Denmark around an inland sea. Limfjorden is full of both islands and peninsulas, each one is unique and has its own experiences. This is a fairly remote area with light road traffic and good bicycle routes. The bicycle pathways are well marked and follow major routes or you can just use local agricultural roads which have little traffic.
Winds are a formidable obstacles around the Limfjord and could be considered Denmark's "mountains." This is one of the areas in Europe where people do a lot of camping. You will find campgrounds near most villages, wild camping is also possible.
This is a photo of Skagen. Prior to the Limfjord we rode from Frederikshavn to Skagen and then to Hirtshals. This is a route well worth doing, the cities are wonderful places to visit because of the busy ports and many historical sites along the way. The route is pretty much vehicle free.
Route signs for the Limfjord can be found in various places but its best to use Naviki (developed in Denmark) to plan your route.
Heading out for an evening swim, which seems to be the national sport in summer.